CU Belay Glasses Review

CU Belay Glasses

I recently had the opportunity to test a pair of CU belay glasses made by a German company called Power’n Play.  The general idea behind the belay glasses is to be able to watch the climber without craning your neck for extended periods.  Power’n Play did this using prisms that bend the light and allow you to see ‘up’ without looking ‘up’.  It is actually quite ingenious to use prisms because the image is not flipped like it is when you use a mirror.

I’ll be honest, at first I thought the CU belay glasses were a little gimmicky but Power’n Play wanted me to give them a review so with an open mind I took them to Shortoff Mountain to give them a go.

My feelings on the glasses are mixed.  These glasses are not toys or cheaply made.  When I first put them on I laughed out loud because the optics were so clean and crisp.  It was kind of cool to be able to see the rock face without craning my neck.  I was also very impressed by the construction of the glasses which is absolutely bomber and they can without a doubt stand up to the rigors of climbing.  I’ll give it to the Germans, they certainly know how to engineer some spectacular stuff.

I belayed my partner on the first pitch which gave me a good opportunity to try the glasses in action.  The field of view is such that they aren’t particularly helpful until the climber is maybe 30 feet off the deck.  After that I popped on the glasses and relaxed while comfortably watching my partner thrash & dangle his way up the line.  Because the optics are so clear and there is no mirroring effect, once you get used to them you forget you’re wearing them at all.

CU Belay Glasses About halfway through the pitch the sun came around corner and created some pretty nasty glare on the shiny metal frames.  It was really kind of aggravating because the sun was shining on my right side and it wouldn’t have been in my eyes if I wasn’t wearing the glasses.  On the plus side the glasses didn’t magnify the sun’s rays and blind me, so I guess I had that going for me.

Besides the glare, the only other downside that I noticed while wearing the CU belay glasses was that I had trouble determining how much slack was in the rope.  Normally I look at the droop in the rope to know whether I need to give or take.  While wearing the glasses I couldn’t do that.  I often found myself with too little or too much rope out which was bad for me and my partner.

After testing the CU belay glasses I would give these a strong recommendation but only in certain situations.  If you are going to be working a hard route on top rope for hours while your belay slave is holding your hang dogging bones between thrashes & dangles, I would highly recommend these glasses for the comfort of the belayer.  If you are going trad climbing where you will be climbing up and down and need your belayer to manage the rope as much as possible, then I would leave the glasses at home.

Pros:

  • Bomber construction
  • Sharp optics
  • Really comfortable
  • Perfect for gym climbers

Cons:

  • Glare from the sun
  • Trouble judging rope slack

Power’n Play

New England Maxim Ropes – Poor Quality & Dangerous

Coreshot
New England Ropes just left a comment on a post about their rope recall because I was “misleading the general public”.  A few weeks ago they announced that they had produced some faulty ropes that needed to be recalled because “The climbing lines can break, posing a serious fall hazard for climbers”.  Judging from the comment “Dan” left, the recall was due to a “fiber issue”.

Apparently I was “misleading the public” because I associated my near fatal experience with my New England Maxim 10.2mm rope with the recall of the Maxim Apoge 9.1mm and the 9.5mm Pinnacle.

I have never said that the Maxim 10.2mm rope I was using that fateful day was being recalled.  What I have said in the past and what I am saying now is that New England Ropes (the company) obviously has a quality control problem judging from the recall and in my opinion the New England Maxim 10.2mm is a poorly constructed rope.

The reasons I know that this is a poorly constructed rope:

1) When I took it out of the protective plastic wrap I had to flake the rope 30 or 40 times before it would stop twisting itself into loops.

2) The workability of the rope was almost laughable even after repeated uses.

3) It took a coreshot on terrain that should have just fuzzied the sheath.

4) Terrible customer service and I mean terrible.

After my bad experience with my New England rope I tried to contact them three times and didn’t get any form of reply. No email, no phone call, no nothing.  Now they want to make nice because I am telling people I will never climb with New England ropes again.  Really guys… come on… how pathetic is that.

When I rope up I need to know that my rope is solid.  Your rope is your lifeline and it is just crazy to even have a shadow of doubt about what keeps you alive when the shit hits the fan.

After my bad experience with the Maxim 10.2mm I switched to Mammut’s Genesis 8.5mm doubles and have been thrilled with them.  Granted, they are more expensive but they are worth every penny.

Recall on Maxim Ropes

New England Ropes Recalls Climbing Lines Due to Fall Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: Maxim Apogee and Maxim Pinnacle Dynamic Climbing Lines/Ropes

Units: About 530

Manufacturer: New England Ropes, of Fall River, Mass.

Hazard: The climbing lines can break, posing a serious fall hazard for climbers.

Incidents/Injuries: None.

Description: Two types of climbing ropes have been included in this recall, the Maxim Apogee 9.1mm and Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm. The Maxim Apogee 9.1mm is a 48 carrier climbing rope. The colors are yellow and black, and red and yellow. The model numbers are 3411-91 and 3415-91, with date codes 060801 thru 080601. The UPC codes are: 75396312299, 75396312298, 75396312301, and 75396312300. The Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm is a blue 48 carrier climbing rope. The Model number is 3403-95, with date codes 070201 thru 080601. The UPC codes are 75396312292 and 75396312293. The date codes and the UPC codes are on the original packaging.

Sold at: Retailers nationwide from August 2006 through June 2008 for between $180 and $262.

Manufactured in: United States

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled dynamic climbing lines and contact the manufacturer for a free replacement.

Consumer Contact: For more information, consumers can contact New England Ropes toll-free at (866) 617-9038 anytime or visit the firm’s Web site at www.neropes.com/Climbing.aspx

Read my nearly catastrophic run in with New England Maxim ropes. (link)