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After the written word the internet may be the greatest communication tool ever invented. It has made it possible to drop a line to a complete stranger halfway across the world as easy as if you were asking your buddy to pass you a beer. I just got an email from Sophie Denis, a French [...] While there will be some controversy about bolts being put on Everest, I think that often in the bolt vs trad argument people forget that the entire point of pro is to protect the climber and cams, nuts, pitons, ice screws and bolts are all part of a climber’s arsenal to safely get up a [...] Thanks to ClimbingNarc for reporting that Simon Carter provided an update (link) on the bad bolt and cut rope accident. In the update there is even a video that shows the the bolts being pulled out entirely too easily. Check it out. It is straight up scary. If this doesn’t make you want to hop a flight to Nepal right this second then you must be dead. Actually, nix that because that is the kind of mountain that gets people dead but damn it is gorgeous. (click on it to see it fully) Picture courstesy: Mohamed Inaz The jist of this very in depth accident review is that incorrect bolts were used which caused them to pop with just body weight on them. The accident report goes into a lot of detail and is well worth the read. Simon Carter’s Accident Report An 18 year old British climber just perished while climbing at Les Gaillands in the Chamonix Valley. Apparently he tried to rappel off only one end of the rope and subsequently fell. I seems too many accidents happen on rappel. Take your time and do it right. Be safe! (link to original story) Alpinist 24 came in the mail the other day. The first thing I did was flip through every page, drooling over the amazing pictures. Then, using all my self control, I set it down. I need to ration my daily intake of Alpinist. All I want to do is read it cover to cover on [...] |
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