>

North Face of Chair Peak

I finally found the time to sharpen up my tools and get out and climb.  It was a blast and considering this was my first alpine-esque climb it went well.  I say alpine-esque because it was more like alpine cragging.  It was the first time I’ve had a snow approach, sunk rock pro while ice [...]

Mt Shuksan – Fisher Chimneys

Mt. Shuksan is one of the most beautiful mountains I have ever laid eyes on.  Like most mountains, Shuksan has an easy way up and a myriad of less easy ways up.  The Sulphide Glacier is the standard route of the mountain.  I cannot attest to the quality of that slog but I imagine it [...]

Another Go at the Disappointment Cleaver on Rainier

I had every intention of climbing Mt Rainier this Labor Day weekend but absolutely no expectation to.  I say this because NOAA issued a winter storm morning that called for 1-2 feet of snow to be dumped above 7,000′ and high winds.

With a forecast like that why would I even want to climb Rainier?  The [...]

Lessons Learned on Disappointment Cleaver – Rainier

This trip report may sound unduly harsh but if the saying “good judgment is the result of experience and experience is often the result of bad judgment” then this is a story of developing better judgment.  I’ll apologize in advance for the length but even at over 2300 words it still does not encompass the [...]

Last Minute Rainier Trip

One of the many perks about living in Seattle is the proximity to big mountains.  Last year when I climbed Rainier it was months of training, planning and praying for a good weather window.  Now it’s “oh the weather is nice so lets go climb Rainier” and so I am.  Yesterday I took someone up [...]

Training for Rainier & Training for Mountaineering in General

Training for mountaineering and training for Rainier in particular is an expectations game.  If you don’t know what to expect you fret over every little detail and want to make sure that your training regime is the “right” one for mountaineering.  If you do know what to expect especially on a climb like the standard [...]

Bolting in NC – Moore’s Wall

An unknown climber wrote this comment on an old post of mine.  I think he or she has a really good point.

Climbed at Moores Wall, NC last week and there must have been 10 people waiting to rap down the sentinel anchor. There were two people on Zoo View, two on Air Show and at [...]

New River Gorge, WV – Bridge Buttress

I recently headed up to New River Gorge to do some rock climbing.  Considering I had never been there it seemed like something I should do before I move from the east coast to the PNW.  Planning is not my M.O. but I was meeting a bunch of my brother’s friends at New River [...]

Vedauwoo Climbing – I’m Down for Anything Once

I am down for anything once.  Life is too short to pass up on experiences just because they are scary, unknown or taboo.  This attitude has gotten me in a lot of trouble in the past but it has also exposed me to the “fringe” and that is where the action is at.

I mention this [...]

Looking Glass – The Nose Trip Report

Quick, what’s the worst thing that can happen to your climbing partner?  A busted face?  A busted leg?  I contend that the worst thing that can happen to a climbing partner is catching a nasty case of girlfrienditis. Not only is he not climbing with you but you know he is physically able to and [...]