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After the written word the internet may be the greatest communication tool ever invented. It has made it possible to drop a line to a complete stranger halfway across the world as easy as if you were asking your buddy to pass you a beer. I just got an email from Sophie Denis, a French [...] Sometimes climbing a peak is just meant to be. This week, it seemed that every time I got close to climbing the Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak something would derail my plans, and yet it all worked out in the end. Funny how that happens sometimes. I’ll spare you the happenstance that led up to the [...] I finally found the time to sharpen up my tools and get out and climb. It was a blast and considering this was my first alpine-esque climb it went well. I say alpine-esque because it was more like alpine cragging. It was the first time I’ve had a snow approach, sunk rock pro while ice [...] Mt. Shuksan is one of the most beautiful mountains I have ever laid eyes on. Like most mountains, Shuksan has an easy way up and a myriad of less easy ways up. The Sulphide Glacier is the standard route of the mountain. I cannot attest to the quality of that slog but I imagine it [...] I had every intention of climbing Mt Rainier this Labor Day weekend but absolutely no expectation to. I say this because NOAA issued a winter storm morning that called for 1-2 feet of snow to be dumped above 7,000′ and high winds. With a forecast like that why would I even want to climb Rainier? The [...] This trip report may sound unduly harsh but if the saying “good judgment is the result of experience and experience is often the result of bad judgment” then this is a story of developing better judgment. I’ll apologize in advance for the length but even at over 2300 words it still does not encompass the [...] One of the many perks about living in Seattle is the proximity to big mountains. Last year when I climbed Rainier it was months of training, planning and praying for a good weather window. Now it’s “oh the weather is nice so lets go climb Rainier” and so I am. Yesterday I took someone up [...] While there will be some controversy about bolts being put on Everest, I think that often in the bolt vs trad argument people forget that the entire point of pro is to protect the climber and cams, nuts, pitons, ice screws and bolts are all part of a climber’s arsenal to safely get up a [...] Part II of my Mt Rainier climb up Disappointment Cleaver is really a completely separate trip report from Part I. Earlier in the week I missed the summit of Rainier because the altitude knocked my climbing partner on his ass. To add insult to injury, Mt Shuksan had repelled me due to sloppy snow conditions. [...] On my last post I felt bad that I couldn’t give a good description of the Fisher Chimney route on Mt Shuksan so I went searching for a bit and found this awesome video. Congrats to them for summitting. |
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