Developing (Near) Virgin Rock in North Carolina – Part II

Developing near virgin North Carolina rock can be described in one word: dirty.  Lichen grows everywhere and every route literally has to be cleaned and cleared as you go.  Luckily we came prepared and our rack included one of those steel bristled BBQ grill brushes to hopefully make easy work of a dirty job.  But even with the right tool for the job it was still a hassle but we went there to climb and the hassles that come with untrodden territory were not going to put a damper on the day.

Ben wanted to climb some virgin rock and soon found an odd flaring crack that opened to a right facing dihedral.  He made quick work of the awkward but easy start and then had the distinct pleasure of battling a licheny dihedral.  Armed with the brush he let loose and a flurry of black snow came raining down on me.  Now with clean rock for his hands and feet he popped out left of the dihedral and scrambled to the anchors that he and Wes installed prior.

I followed and was quite surprised at how good the rock was.  On the route there was nothing rotten and the rock still had that fresh grit feel that gets polished off as more and more people grab the same handholds and use the same feet.  If you’ve ever climbed at Laurel Knob then you know that fresh grit feel I am talking about.

The route is not finished because there are definitely options to continue up but while we’re still exploring the under-developed wall the shiny new anchors seemed like a good place to stop.

All in all it was probably 60 feet of 5.7-ish climbing that just oozed adventure.

Developing (Near) Virgin Rock in North Carolina

ROCK!!!  That would be the word of the day while developing this undocumented wall near Table Rock in North Carolina.

Wes and Ben were by no means the first people to explore this wall.  There were already a couple of lines bolted with modern equipment when they got there but it was obvious from the overgrown lichen and friable rock that this wall had not been climbed out.  They were not the first there, but developing is not about being the first.  Developing a wall is about making it accessible to the motivated, adventurous souls looking to push the boundaries of established lines.  It is about bettering the rock climbing community by adding one more area to explore.  It is about a whole lot of work… and a helluva lot of fun.

This spring Wes and Ben are getting their fill of undocumented routes and they asked me to keep the exact location a secret but I can tell you that once it is developed it will be exciting.

I am hesitant to call anything a “first ascent” because you can never be 100% certain that nobody has climbed that route before.  What I can be sure of is that this wall is about as virgin as North Carolina rock comes.  On the whole the rock is covered in lichen which makes it very apparent where people have climbed before because you literally have to clean the lichen in front of you as you go.  Also there is an abundant amount of very loose rock sitting on top of bomber solid rock which keeps the belayer on his toes as it continually flakes off of the wall.  Unlike Crowders Mountain, where all the rock is crap, once this first layer of crap rock is cleaned the routes will eat up pro that you can set and forget.

Over the next few days I am going to write up the few routes that they have put up so far.  If you’re interested in helping with their project shoot me a message via the “About Me” page on top or leave a comment.  At the end of the day it is up to them if they want to share their baby but I can tell you that it will be fun to watch this project evolve.

Moore’s Wall Sentinel Buttress – Zoo View Area Closed

I copy and pasted this from the Hanging Rock State Park’s website.  I thought you guys should be aware.  Link to the website here (link)

WARNING: Climbing Hazard And Route Closure
Sentinel Buttress – Loose Blocks at 2nd Pitch Rappel Station

Climbers have reported two large loose blocks estimated at 150 and 250 pounds resting on the root ball of a dying pine tree approximately 10 feet west of the rappel hardware at the top of the second pitch on Sentinel Buttress. There are other smaller loose blocks as well. Wind gusts are causing this tree to shift, which could cause these loose blocks to fall.

THE FALL LINE FOR THESE BLOCKS WILL BE DIRECTLY DOWN THE CLIMBING ROUTE AND RAPPELLING ROUTE OF PITCH #2 AND THE CROW’S NEST. THE SENTINEL BUTTRESS ROUTE AND ALL ROUTES USING THIS RAPPEL STATION ARE CLOSED UNTIL THIS HAZARD IS REMOVED.

Climbers are urged to exercise extreme caution in this area, and all routes utilizing this rappel station are closed until the loose rock is removed. The park is coordinating their removal with the Carolina Climbers Coalition. Please contact park staff if you have any questions.

Updated: 2009-04-03 14:55:15

American Alpine Club Membership

Today I renewed my American Alpine Club membership.  If you’re not a member it is definitely worth looking in to. Not only do you get Accidents in North American Mountaineering and American Alpine Journal but you also get a bit of medical evacuation coverage from Global Rescue.

All that is fine and dandy in my book but the real reason I renewed is because for those under 28 years old it is only $40 and I actually get to support something I believe in.  After spending a long day in a muted gray cubical, it feels nice to contribute to something that makes the world a better place.

In short – join.

Benefits of joining (link)