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Hypothermia Sucks

Hypothermia sucks! End of story.  It is even worse when you are stuck on the face of a mountain with absolutely no where to hide from the cold.  American Alpine Institute had a hypothermia post which was drawn from a NOLS hypothermia post. (AAI) (NOLS)

Apparently the best way to treat backcountry hypothermia to try to [...]

New England Maxim Ropes - Poor Quality & Dangerous

New England Ropes just left a comment on a post about their rope recall because I was “misleading the general public”.  A few weeks ago they announced that they had produced some faulty ropes that needed to be recalled because “The climbing lines can break, posing a serious fall hazard for climbers”.  Judging [...]

Rules of Glissading

Glissading is some dangerous shit but oh dear God it can be fun.  So when I came across this article by the American Alpine Institute I thought I would share it. (link)

Disappointment Cleaver – Mount Rainier – Part II

Part II of my Mt Rainier climb up Disappointment Cleaver is really a completely separate trip report from Part I.  Earlier in the week I missed the summit of Rainier because the altitude knocked my climbing partner on his ass.  To add insult to injury, Mt Shuksan had repelled me due to sloppy snow conditions.  [...]

Friends witness British teenager Ian Jackson plunge to his death in French Alps

An 18 year old British climber just perished while climbing at Les Gaillands in the Chamonix Valley.  Apparently he tried to rappel off only one end of the rope and subsequently fell.  I seems too many accidents happen on rappel.

Take your time and do it right.  Be safe!

(link to original story)

50 Summits – 50 States – 50 Days

Way to go Mike Haugen!  Mike climbed all 50 state highpoints in under 50 days.  He started with Denali and worked his way across the US and ended in under 50 days at Hawaii’s highpoint.  Rock out dude.  Here is a link to his Coleman sponsored blog.

Belaying with a GriGri – Petzl

I don’t own a GriGri and personally a I don’t trust them.  They seem like great devices that are simple to use but I much prefer to stick with my trusty Black Diamond Guide or my Petzl Reverso 3. If you do belay with a Petzl GriGri you should definitely use proper technique.  Watch the [...]

Free Mountain Hardwear Pack

Alright, maybe you’re not winning the Mountain Hardwear Pack from OnTheSharpEnd.com but Mountain Hardwear has decided to have a Pack-a-Day Give Away for the month of August.  While I probably shouldn’t be advertising this, I thought it was cool enough to share

Pack-a-Day Give Away